Nigerian Dwarf Goat Standards from DGSA

 Robust, dairy type with triple dairy wedge, feminine does, masculine bucks, well blended, no tendency to coarseness, well proportioned. 

 Does – maximum 57cm (22.5″), minimum 43cm (17″). Bucks – max 60cm (23.5″), minimum 43cm (17″). Measurement to be taken after reaching 4 years of age. 

 Any colour and pattern. Skin tan to black. 

 Soft, hair is short to medium in length. 

 Medium length. Facial line – dished or straight. Ears medium sized and pricked. Well-developed muzzle. Polled or disbudded, eyes large and bright and set well apart, can be either brown/gold or blue with no preference given to either colour, no coarseness. 

 Blending smoothly into the shoulders with no coarseness, with or without tassels. Does, long and feminine. Bucks, masculine and strong. 

 Backline strong, straight and horizontal. 

 Fine withers, blending firmly into shoulders, wide and deep in bucks with medium width and depth in does. 

 Triple dairy wedge with good spring of rib (which are backward sloping with clean flat bone) and proportional length to height. 

 Gradual fall (gentle downward slope) from hips to tail, good width between hips flaring out to thurls, rump level across thurls. 

 Straight, strong, parallel with flat bone, with pasterns short and strong (nearly upright/vertical). Hooves sound and well-shaped with good heel depth. 

 Broad attachment high at rear and well forward in front (at least as far forward as the front of the hip bones) and no pocket, not pendulous or unduly divided, side well attached to inner thighs, strong medial ligament, soft textured and showing good capacity. Skin tan to black. 

 Set in the centre and lowest point of each udder half, to be a reasonable size to enable hand milking or ease of cup placement. 

 Two good size teats set slightly to the fore and side of the scrotum, milking bucks will have doe sized teats. 

 Two testicles in a well attached scrotum which is relatively even (in summer may have the appearance of being pendulous). 

 Horned. Uneven tassels.  

 Roman nose. Roach or sway back. Dip behind the wither. Shallow body. Narrow chest. Steep rump. Flat rump (no gradual fall from hips to tail). Width decreasing from hips to thurls. Toe in or out. Cow or bow hocked. Dropped, weak or long pasterns. Postiness. Dew claws different sizes. Splayed feet. Fleshy, pendulous or unduly divided udder. Pocket in udder. Undefined medial ligament/flat sole. Pink skin. Teats: different sized teats, bulbous, extremely small/thick, sideways pointing. Bucks: unduly pendulous, divided testicles. Under recommended minimum height. 

 Wry face. Double or supernumerary teats. Double orifices. Blind teats. Spurs/sprigs on teats. Pendulous ears, LaMancha ears. Undescended testicles in bucks, or one testicle only. Obviously undershot or overshot jaw (side profile). Over breed standard recommended maximum height or under the breed standard minimum height when measured at 4 years of age (or older) disqualifies animals from registration in Purebred Section. 

 On a personal note, breed standards exist to give breeders and studs something to work towards. They help us identify strengths within the breed, as well as areas where improvements can be made. These standards aren't arbitrary—they exist for important reasons relating to health, functionality, and the long-term improvement of the breed.

As an example, let's talk about skin pigmentation. The breed standard calls for tanned to black skin pigmentation, and there is a practical reason behind this. Goats with darker skin are generally less susceptible to sun-related skin damage and skin cancers than those with pink skin. While many white-coated goats naturally have pink skin, darker pigmentation is something we aim to select for in our breeding program wherever possible.

For us, breeding isn't just about producing attractive animals; it's about producing healthy, functional goats that will thrive for years to come. Understanding the reasons behind breed standards helps us make informed breeding decisions and continue improving the quality of the breed for future generations.

 Another breed standard that often sparks discussion is horns. Some Nigerian Dwarf goats are naturally born with horns, and opinions on whether goats should remain horned or be disbudded can vary considerably among breeders and owners.

From our perspective as a dairy stud, where we work in very close proximity to our goats every day, disbudding is largely a safety consideration. Routine management tasks such as milking, hoof trimming, health checks, injections, and handling all require us to be close to our animals, often at head height.

We do have a few horned goats, and I have lost count of the number of times we've been caught by a horn. Fortunately, we've never suffered a serious injury or lost an eye, but there have certainly been plenty of close calls. Importantly, these incidents are never the result of an aggressive goat. More often than not, the goat is simply turning its head, reaching around to scratch its back, or moving normally, and we just happen to be in the wrong place at the wrong time.

For us, disbudding is not about changing the nature of the animal; it's about reducing the risk of accidental injury to both people and other goats. In a dairy environment where animals are handled frequently throughout their lives, this is an important welfare and management consideration.

As with many aspects of livestock breeding and management, there are differing opinions on the subject. This is simply our experience and one of the reasons we support the breed standard preference for disbudded dairy goats.

 Another area that is particularly important to us is udder and teat structure. While show-ring success is wonderful, our primary focus is breeding dairy goats that are productive, functional, and enjoyable to milk.

For us, a good dairy goat should not only produce plenty of milk but should also be easy to milk, whether you're hand milking or using a machine. We aim to breed does with well-attached udders and teats that are correctly sized and positioned for comfortable milking.

Small teats that point sideways can make hand milking frustrating and uncomfortable, particularly for new goat owners. They can also create challenges when machine milking, as milking cups are more likely to slip off, making the process less efficient for both the goat and the milker.

This is especially important for families looking at Nigerian Dwarf goats as a home dairy animal. There is little point investing in a dairy goat if she produces only a small amount of milk or is difficult to milk each day. What starts as an exciting journey into home dairy can quickly become a frustrating chore, leading some owners to give up altogether.

Our breeding goal is to produce does that make milking a pleasant experience. We want our goats to have the capacity to provide a useful amount of milk for their families while also having the udder structure and teat placement that make daily milking simple and enjoyable. In our view, functionality should always go hand in hand with good conformation.

After all, Nigerian Dwarf goats are dairy animals first and foremost, and we believe their structure should support the job they were originally bred to do.

 These are just a few examples of why breed standards are important. Every point within the standard exists for a reason, whether it relates to health, functionality, longevity, productivity, or overall breed improvement.

If you're at the stage of researching Nigerian Dwarf goats and are speaking with breeders or studs, don't be afraid to ask questions. A breeder should be able to explain not only what the breed standards are, but also why they matter and how they influence their breeding decisions.

If a breeder cannot explain the importance of these few points—let alone the many other aspects of the breed standard—it's worth considering what exactly you are investing your money in. Quality breeding is about more than simply producing kids; it's about understanding the breed, preserving its strengths, and making thoughtful decisions that benefit future generations.

As a buyer, educating yourself and asking questions is one of the best investments you can make. The more you understand about the breed and the goals behind a breeding program, the more confident you'll be in choosing goats that are right for your needs and expectations.